CoinOpCollectorForum.com

Hi Jim thought i would start a new thread again, I have a few Photographs here again for you, as you can see i found the blue and yellow wire it goes to the back of the machine then upwards to the top of the machine so i am not sure whats next.

What you said about the wire going to the door, in one of the photo,s you will see a whole pile of wires going to the connector, but that blue and yellow wire doesnt seem to be going there,it seems to be going to another bunch of wires to the back of the machine and then upwards, unless that blue and yellow wire from socket 4 does eventually end up at that large connector by going to the back then top of the machine and heading back down again not to sure

Oliver How are you doing? good I hope! Well you may have to get into the top of the machine, there should be some kind of access. If the blue/grn wire terminates at some point then you will need to trace the next color in the circuit. The wires should end at the big connector that clips to the mech. you can also take the connector cover off the cable be carefull not to crack the paper inner liner and check the solder joints for wires touching each other or the cover. More to do later ,however getting close to eliminating the problem at the cabinet. Still have issues at home but this helps take my mind off my problems !!! Later Jim

Hi Jim i am well thanks for asking, hope that you are doing better to

Just a quick question can i use the multimeter to periodically check that wire as i am following it up just to make sure the fault is still there, would you put one lead on the wire itself and the other on the chassis somewhere

cheers

Oliver Doing a bit better Thanks. Yes, One lead will go on the wire the other lead will go to the chassis on the other end. This is because the power and switch wires are always isolated from the chassis and if there is a fault to the chassis thats where your 0 reading comes from. Which also brings up another question. With the mech out of the cabinet and the power cord unplugged from the wall test the center wire on #4 to the chassis and see if it goes to 0. If it does we just eliminated the mech as the problem and the fault is in the cabinet.

Hi Jim hows things, well i did a few things yesterday. One thing was i tested the metal tab on socket 4 with the mech out of the cabinet and there was no fault.

When i put the mech back in and connected the big connector with the wires, then the socket 4 metal tab came up with an error again so i am not sure what that means.

Also with the mech in and all connected, although the metal tab on socket 4 comes up with an error if i move up to the wire and put one lead on the wire and the other lead on the chassis then no error, so i am not sure if i am doing that right

hope it all makes sense to you

cheers

Oliver I have been busy and have been unable to get on until tonite. OK looks like we are at half way. With the mech out of the cabinet there is no fault from #4 center pin to the chassis. That is a good sign. When you put the mech back into the cabinet and reconnected the big socket you got the fault on #4 again. Correct? Not sure what your describing on the last sentence. If you got no error when you moved the wire that may be where the fault lies. Put a bulb in the socket without moving the wires too much and fire it up. Stick a coin in and if it does not blow the fuse that means you found it. If it blows then we go to the mech itself. Let me know how it goes !!! Later Jim

Hi Jim hope you are well, sorry i have not been on here for a few days, going on a cruise to the south pacific in a few weeks been a little busy sorting that out.

With the machine you are spot on with what you said, mech out of the cabinet fault, mech in the cabinet cable connected fault.

I did find out something interesting today, the multimeter ran out of battery but i have posted a video and a picture to explain this better

https://youtu.be/BrfLzmMAQn0

With the video as you can see everything is on except the cable is not connected, in this state with power on and as per the video light and all, with cable unplugged the fuse does not blow

In the Photo with it all on again and cable connected the fuze blows so i guess that there is something or some wire going from that big connector that is the problem

My biggest problem is how do i trace the fault up the wire, i know the tab on socket 4 indicates a fault but following the wire for a fault i am not sure how to do as i guess all we really need to do is follow the wire looking for the fault, either from the socket 4 or maybe i should carefully open that connector to see if all is okay with that. i am just a little inexperienced in following the fault if you know what i mean.

Anyhow hope that this helps a little bit it does feel we are getting there, in fact and this is interesting when i first had that machine the lights worked and the fuze did not blow, it only started to happen after i disconnected that cable and put it back so i am thinking in removing that cable i disturbed a wire, well i will leave it with you to ponder, and dont worry i am always here when you get around to it, well cruise is on the 21st for 9 nights but other than that i am here

take it easy

Oliver check the plug on both ends to see if there are some bent pins. This would cause a fault. If there is no noticable fault then check the cable where you worked on it earlier, as maybe a wire was pinched when you reattached it. We are half way and if there is no fault in the connectors then it is in the mechanism, as no fault is detected with the mechanism outside of the cabinet. Also, you can put all the bulbs and sockets back together. I'm finally feeling better, not been well since Sept. and then the passing of my Mom did not help matters. I am happy for you, the south seas is my dream vacation !!! However if I get there I may never come back !!!! LOL !!! Later Jim

Hi Jim glad to hear you are feeling a bit better, i just wanted to ask that big cable clamp i havent opened it yet to look at the wires i will though carefully, can i check anything in that big cable for a fault when i open it or is there a way to test the big metal clamp for a short.
I know you probably told me already but how can i check that cable and the pins and the wires inside the clamp for a fault with the multimeter

cheers and talk soon

Oliver Thanks getting better every day. OK, so now if you want to test the cable on the cabinet side just do the same as the light socket, one lead to the chassis and the touch the end of the other lead to each contact. There should be no faults on the wires (except ) for the green or green/white ground wires if any. Do the same with the mech after that. We are half way WOO
HOO!!!!!!!