Loud clunk when cycling in case

[insertcoinhere]

I have been working to "tune" my Sient FOK so it does not clunk so loudly and require such effort to wind up the mechanism. I have adjusted the operating fork lift pin (chisel) back about 0.006" and it operates as desired outside case. After putting in the case there is a hard spot at the bottom of the pull just before the mechanism unwinds and an accompanying "clunk". Where might this clunk and heavy spot on the handle be coming from?

Not sure if related but I just put in a rebuilt pump that, like the mech, works fine with the mech out of the case. With the mech in the case I can pull the handle and let it go. The handle will move in a damped fashion about halfway back then pause before continuing to rest. The pump is set to limit return to about 1.5 seconds.

Since both of these items happen with the mech in the case i am wondering if this might have something to do with the starting arm or perhaps something altogether different. I'd love some thoughts/ideas on both or ether issue.

Thanks,
Greg

[insertcoinhere]

Trying to add a little context here. The sound on the video is pretty quiet but on the MP3 it gives a better idea. The video does show however the pause in the handle return.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/zicey7wjhmw1i2p/P2122046.MP4?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/o3rpo564vnjhq5u/slot%20machin3.mp3?dl=0

[altort]

Hi Greg, it takes time and patients to work all the bugs out, I could not really hear the clunk on the video, and could barely make out the added effort at the end of the pull, let me start by asking is your mech a 10 or 20 stop, the 10 stop is a bit more clunky than a 20 stop.

As far as the handle return, try taking the handle hub apart cleaning all of the old lube that is more than likely all hard by now and apply fresh lube and make sure it operates smoothly with out any binding and check for proper return spring tension.

As far as the increased effort and clunk at the end of the handle pull check to make sure that the roller bearing wheel that the handle starter rides on spins free and not stiff to turn or seized, check to make sure that the handle starter is not worn were it contacts the mech's roller wheel, if all looks proper you will need to try to remove the upper casting and operate the slot trying to pinpoint when the bind occurs and the cause,

Good luck

[insertcoinhere]

Thanks altort. It is a 10 stop machine so maybe I am just expecting too much? What got me digging into this is watching videos of other machines that seem to operate smooth and quiet. As I said, perhaps I am expecting too much and just chasing ghosts....

The bearing that the starter handle rides on - should that actually be a bearing or just a sleeve over a pin? Mine does not seem to have any bearing "guts" and is kind of floppy on the pin. I could see where a needle bearing might be appropriate there but just don't know.

The more I played with the mech today outside of the case I found it is clunking frequently so the title of this post may be misleading. It seems to get right to the end of the stroke then locks up. Takes a little more effort to finish the stroke and run the mechanism.

[jmisatu]

Looking at the video and listening to both sound tracks on the mp4 and mp3 it sounds and looks pretty normal to me. Reels might be stopping a bit too quickly perhaps but otherwise this is often what you get with some of these older mechanisms in my opinion. The handle return looks normal too. If you could post a couple of pics of the main operating fork from different angles I may have a possible clue to some of the difficulty in the winding up phase.

[sam2002]

Old clunky machines, thought that was normal for the older machines like goosenecks etc.?

[insertcoinhere]

@altort - I pulled the handle as you suggested and found nice, pliable grease. Good thought - thanks! Did you happen to confirm if the "bearing" is actually a bearing or just a sleeve over a pin like mine?

@jmisatu - Thanks for your feedback. Here are the requested photos. Can't wait to hear what you have to say.

@sam2002 - Yeah, I am starting to think I am chasing the unobtainable. I watch youtube videos and their "silent" machines seem to wind up so smooth but maybe it is just a matter of what comes through in the video.

[jmisatu]

I was hoping to see the angle looking down onto the operating main arm which is the thick horizontal round cast iron shaft in the rear of the mech. If yours does not have the three outcroppings extending towards the interior of the mech to lift the brake arms during windup the flat surface of the timing bar behind the clock will be used to lift the reel stopping arms using the lower "shoes" of the reel stopping arms. The upper "shoes" of the reel stopping arms, when lifted by the outcroppings on the operating main fork/arm make the windup more smooth. A pic looking down into the mech would show those 3 extensions on that operating arm. See if that makes sense at all. Hope this helps.

[insertcoinhere]

@jmisatu - are these what you are looking for? I did a little googling and think I know what you are referring to and it does not look like my fork has the three outcroppings.....

[jmisatu]

It does not have the lifting arms. There is a two hole threaded flattened area where something might be attached that would be a substitute for those lift assisting protrusions but I am not too knowledgeable regarding that. Most of the time those lifting bars are cast into the operating bar itself. What might help is to check the area on the timing bar behind and just below the back edge of the clock to see how smoothly the reel stop levers are lifted and grease those areas or check also to see if the metal on those three lower "shoes" is not dragging with maybe a bur or rough edge from metal on metal dragging. Removing the reel bundle will permit good access to check that out.