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Rubber Handle Cushion Removal

PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 6:37 am
by RameGoom
trying to remove the rock-hard rubber cushion in my Mills machine. The rubber block is crimped tightly into the steel back bracket, so I figured out an easy way to open up the crimp.

Used a 7/32" drill bit, and a 3/16" punch.

Drilled two holes in the back, right thru the rubber, and set it up on a vise. A few hard punches with a hammer and the crimp opened right up. Then I used a piece of window-setting rubber and cut it to size with a hack saw. Placed the new rubber into the crimp, and used a couple of scrap pieces of aluminum to clamp it tight in the vise.

Smooth handle return now.

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Re: Rubber Handle Cushion Removal

PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 9:05 am
by pj waelti
Where do you get window setting rubber? Hardware store? I have a couple that are rock hard and need to be replaced...Thanks PJ

Re: Rubber Handle Cushion Removal

PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 9:59 am
by RameGoom
The rubber spacers are used on commercial window frames. When they set the window into the opening, they use these pieces that are maybe 4 in. long, and 1.5 in. wide, 1/2 inch thick. You can find a local commercial window business and inquire. I'm pretty sure they're very inexpensive.

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Re: Rubber Handle Cushion Removal

PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2015 3:30 pm
by mechanic
Now thats what I call slick !!! This idea does not damage the part like trying to pry it up and damaging the crimps. Most excellent!!!!!!!!!

Re: Rubber Handle Cushion Removal

PostPosted: Thu Apr 23, 2015 10:08 pm
by JPCass
Based in part on other situations where I've had to remove old material or fittings, I would guess that it might also work, to drill holes as large as possible horizontally into the length of the old rubber block, taking out most of its material and leaving it undermined enough that it should be able to be pushed out, or even crumbled back in on itself. It should then be possible to put something like a large screwdriver or a chisel in the space where the cushion was, and maybe with some blocking underneath it, pry and/or twist up to push up the crimping from the inside and behind, leaving it without marks on top. That would allow the process to be done without quite as much setup, and without need for a round punch (which I assume is what was used, through the drilled holes, in conjunction with the hammer).

I'll attempt this approach with the case that I'm just starting to work on, and try to remember to report back about how it goes. I will also see if I can get the rubber material at a good local hardware store or auto store - if nothing else, I think it could be cut out of the rubber used in a plumbing test (drain) plug or the tiedown plugs that go in to the stake pockets of a pickup truck bed.